This newsletter reflects on a recent trip I made to Rosapenna, in the far north of Ireland and a round at the much talked about St Patrick’s Links.

Our second long form episode of our Journeys series where I explore links golf’s great locations. This video was made possible by presenting partner Holderness & Bourne - Golf apparel with classic style and a modern fit. With thanks to John & Frank Casey of Rosapenna Golf Resort and Fáilte Ireland for some fine Irish hospitality.

The journey for us started with a flight to Belfast and a 2.5 hour road trip. Like the drives of Dornoch or Machrihanish, each passing mile helps build the anticipation. Every mile taking you further away from the real world and closer to the linksland. Past lochs, over mountains and finally, to the seaside town of Downings with a catchment population of 3,000.

The first time setting foot onsite at St Patrick’s Links was at 6am, just prior to a beautiful sunrise. The landscape and scale of the site struck me in a way that no other links course has. With several months that have passed it remains that way, despite living 10 minutes from another modern links with towering dunes here in Scotland. This all accounts as a backhanded compliment to those who visit Trump Aberdeen and rave about it. While the golf courses don’t serve my own personal taste, I now have a better understanding why it attracts the hyperbole by others.

The scale of site.

What St Patrick’s Links has in my opinion that Trump Aberdeen doesn’t is an identity. A comfort in its own skin and something that feels part of its landscape and not just placed upon it. There’s a connection between holes, the coastline and native areas. The setting against mountains and within site of coastal settlements that create a true sense of place. The golf does the same. Holes that rumble with the land and not against it. Greens equally wild but that feed your ball to its home, not away from it. A modesty to the experience that matches the people and the culture. A bond with its community that is felt in the bars and restaurants. St Patrick’s - Irish in name and personality.

The very identity of the golf experience at St Patrick’s is encapsulated in its modest starter building which also acts as a locker room, restroom and pro shop. You’ve arrived at St Patrick’s for the golf. Get your golf shoes on, buy your Holderness & Bourne shirt and get yourself out into the dunes and play some golf. It is no surprise to learn that the very people who created this identity are just like you and I. Links golf lovers who later this year would drive through the night to pitch up at Lahinch to watch the Walker Cup in the pissing rain. Those kinda guys. Our kinda guys!

John & Frank Casey were brought up in the family owned hotel and golf resort with an urge to add to their family business. When they would hand Tom Doak a stretch of linksland comprising two golf courses, he opted to morph it into 18 holes that instantly ranked among some of his finest work of a generational career. Ireland’s newest links golf course and already one of its best.

I won’t bore you with the hole by hole analysis that others do better but the routing takes you to the coastline midway through both nines. An inland stretch in the middle full of intrigue and questions that I failed to answer, before the reveal and walk from 14th tee that will never leave you.

So what about the greens? The only recurring critique that I read on St Patrick’s. I must admit, I don’t think I loved wild greens 24 months ago. Part of this was down to some that I played that were frankly too fast but part of my growing fondness or better understanding of severe greens came from my round here.

Subtle greens on a dramatic and natural environment found here wouldn’t jive. For me it’s simple. The greens at St Patrick’s encourage a ball on the ground and often discourage a ball played in the air. Great for sandy ground and a wild and windy site like that of St Patrick’s. Get this wrong and you’ll play shots that make you look very average and hit putts that punish you.

The hotel at Rosapenna couldn’t of been better. Large, comfortable rooms. The kind of place I’d take my wife to stay and most definitely a little nicer than I might have been expecting. A ground floor room with terrace and views over the bay. A short walk to town to our favourite spots:

Pints at Harbour Bar, as a traditional Irish bar as you can find.

Pizza and pints at Goose & Gander

Wild swim at Downings Harbour followed by coffee at Fiffi’s

But to truly appreciate Donegal and the coastline, I encourage you to head out of bounds and take time to explore the beauty of this magical landscape.

I crave a return for the solitude of Downings and a crack at their other golf offerings onsite. For a beer with the Casey brothers yes, but for the fresh air and great links golf that fills your soul in ways the Guinness can’t.

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Cheers, Ru Macdonald